Boukreev explains his understanding of his role as a "consultant" rather than a "guide". He doesn't (really) have a bad word to say about any of his companions as people, largely because that is not his concern. His concern goes no further than their abilities as mountaineers.

Even when petty jibes are described (members of the expedition called him snickers because of his footware) no names are mentioned. Some of the clients clearly bitched about Anatoli because he didn't pamper them as they would have liked, but that was not his role.

I guess the quality that shines through is one of noble reticence, even in the face of the Krakauer controversy. Perhaps the most compelling evidence in Anatoli's favour is the dignity with which he has conducted himself in the face of such a pointed, singled-out attack on the part of Krakauer.


A Heroic Man   March 26, 2004
 17 out of 17 found this review helpful

If you are looking for a fair view of what happened on the mountain on that dreadful day 10th May 1996 then this is the book to read, but if you are after a book that takes you on a rollercoaster ride of those fateful hours then i'm afraid you will be very disappointed.

After reading this book I have an awful lot of admiration for Anatoli Bourkreev. The heroic effort he made to rescue as many eople off that mountain must never be forgotten.

The Climb is split into effectively 2 books. The first explains how Antoli was chosen for the expedition, the preparation that was involved and also the detail of what actually happened when the two teams of Rob Hall and Scott Fischer got tangled deep into the death zone.

The 2nd part of the book is spent justifying Anatoli's decisions, and defending the wild and mostly misdirected accusations directed at him by Jon Krakauer. This in it's self is very important, but unfortunately the same accusations are covered time and time again, but only from a different perspective. I found myself willing to get to the end of the book for this reason, which did slightly ruin the whole book for me.

Please make your own mind up, but be warned that the last half of the book can become a little tedious.


Must read for everyone who has read "Into Thin Air"   March 13, 2004
 9 out of 9 found this review helpful

The Climb has opened my eyes to the difficulties of guiding, the selfishness of some and how priorities can get misplaced. This book can't be read on its own, you have to read it with the rest of the books that deal with that fateful time on Everest. Although not the easiest book to get into, its comtents are compeling. It also balances up the account given in "Into Thin Air". Wonder what I'll think after reading Beck Weather's account!!


A compelling read... Hard to put down...   August 21, 2003
 12 out of 12 found this review helpful

This is one of the best book I have ever read - in it G.W. DeWalt and Boukreev, one of the legendary climbers of his time, have combined to make this book a gripping, compelling read. It was immensely difficult to tear myself away from it. Having read Into Thin Air by John Krakauer, which gives Krakauer's version of events on that fatal day, this book contrasts heavily to Krakauer's style of writing, in as good a way as possible. G.W. DeWalt has put Boukreev's account forward so well, I am moved to feel for Boukreev - who pulled off one of the most astounding mountaineering rescues of all time without oxygen - because he is unjustly villified over his actions on that fatal day by the media. In reading this, I have been compelled to change my mind over certain things - showing how well his account has been put across.